Guidebook for San Francisco
Food Scene
This old-school greasy spoon first opened in 1905 and is one of the only intact examples of an Italian-style cafe from the era, with art deco wood paneling and ’50s details. It’s a protected historic structure, but is totally unstuffy. You’ll enjoy it best during the week. It’s very busy with tourists on Saturday and is closed Sunday.
It’s been in the same family for years, and many of them are real characters. Place your order (I recommend the full English breakfast) and get ready to be astounded by Nevio, the owner’s, memory. He never writes anything down but somehow never gets an order wrong.
161 locals recommend
E Pellicci
332 Bethnal Green RdThis old-school greasy spoon first opened in 1905 and is one of the only intact examples of an Italian-style cafe from the era, with art deco wood paneling and ’50s details. It’s a protected historic structure, but is totally unstuffy. You’ll enjoy it best during the week. It’s very busy with tourists on Saturday and is closed Sunday.
It’s been in the same family for years, and many of them are real characters. Place your order (I recommend the full English breakfast) and get ready to be astounded by Nevio, the owner’s, memory. He never writes anything down but somehow never gets an order wrong.
This bar, coffee shop, and restaurant is a total oasis among an unsexy, complicated network of roads, roundabouts, and nondescript modern redevelopments. It’s in a dilapidated 1758 Georgian mansion that has been beautifully restored over the past 10 years or so and is filled with a delightful mishmash of antiques and light fixtures from all eras.
See that swagged curtained doorway just off the restaurant? Go through it to discover a house full of wonderful antiques and ephemera for sale.
122 locals recommend
LASSCO Brunswick House
30 Wandsworth RdThis bar, coffee shop, and restaurant is a total oasis among an unsexy, complicated network of roads, roundabouts, and nondescript modern redevelopments. It’s in a dilapidated 1758 Georgian mansion that has been beautifully restored over the past 10 years or so and is filled with a delightful mishmash of antiques and light fixtures from all eras.
See that swagged curtained doorway just off the restaurant? Go through it to discover a house full of wonderful antiques and ephemera for sale.
Arts & Culture
Wilton’s began in 1690 as five separate houses and has assumed multiple roles since—from Methodist church to refuge during the Battle of Cable Street. But it’s best known for the once-ornate 1860s music hall. Its faded grandeur has been preserved, right down to the peeling paint and creaky floors.
A drink in the Mahogany Bar. Order an ale, and soak up the heritage of this former 17th century alehouse.
162 locals recommend
Wilton's Music Hall
1 Graces AlyWilton’s began in 1690 as five separate houses and has assumed multiple roles since—from Methodist church to refuge during the Battle of Cable Street. But it’s best known for the once-ornate 1860s music hall. Its faded grandeur has been preserved, right down to the peeling paint and creaky floors.
A drink in the Mahogany Bar. Order an ale, and soak up the heritage of this former 17th century alehouse.
This art gallery in a 1712 gunmaking shop mounts shows in the building’s carefully preserved spaces. Rooms with rough wooden floorboards and walls make it feel more like an art lover’s minimalist home than a gallery. The grand artwork sometimes shown here can make the rooms feel modest, yet it always seems to work brilliantly.
The first floor gallery is my favourite. It’s really dilapidated and has an old fireplace, which makes it a really unusual exhibition space.
Riflemaker
79 Beak StreetThis art gallery in a 1712 gunmaking shop mounts shows in the building’s carefully preserved spaces. Rooms with rough wooden floorboards and walls make it feel more like an art lover’s minimalist home than a gallery. The grand artwork sometimes shown here can make the rooms feel modest, yet it always seems to work brilliantly.
The first floor gallery is my favourite. It’s really dilapidated and has an old fireplace, which makes it a really unusual exhibition space.
One of my favourite interiors, now part of the Tate Modern, was originally designed as a power station by Gilbert Scott in the 1940s. The enormous Turbine Hall remained almost untouched during the 1990 renovations by Herzog & de Meuron. It’s an incredible example of modernism and makes an amazing backdrop for the site-specific installations shown here.
The new Tate Modern extension is an incredible piece of design. It’s worth going to the top to the Viewing Gallery for the views and for seeing into people’s homes. I probably shouldn’t encourage that, but it’s the interior designer in me.
2008 locals recommend
Tate Modern
BanksideOne of my favourite interiors, now part of the Tate Modern, was originally designed as a power station by Gilbert Scott in the 1940s. The enormous Turbine Hall remained almost untouched during the 1990 renovations by Herzog & de Meuron. It’s an incredible example of modernism and makes an amazing backdrop for the site-specific installations shown here.
The new Tate Modern extension is an incredible piece of design. It’s worth going to the top to the Viewing Gallery for the views and for seeing into people’s homes. I probably shouldn’t encourage that, but it’s the interior designer in me.
Sightseeing
It’s hard to believe this place exists—the oldest residential building in Hackney transports you back to the 16th century. Inside the red-brick Tudor house is a rare type of wood-paneled parlour, huge stone fireplaces, incredible floors, and rooms re-created as they would have been during Tudor times. I actually got married here!
The community fought hard to save this place from developers, and there’s a real sense that it belongs to them, especially at the events often held here, which range from LGBTQ evenings to Alice in Wonderland tea parties.
33 locals recommend
Sutton House
2-4 Homerton High StIt’s hard to believe this place exists—the oldest residential building in Hackney transports you back to the 16th century. Inside the red-brick Tudor house is a rare type of wood-paneled parlour, huge stone fireplaces, incredible floors, and rooms re-created as they would have been during Tudor times. I actually got married here!
The community fought hard to save this place from developers, and there’s a real sense that it belongs to them, especially at the events often held here, which range from LGBTQ evenings to Alice in Wonderland tea parties.
If you’re into modernism, this house designed and inhabited by Ernö Goldfinger in 1940 is one to see. It’s owned by the National Trust, which has kept everything exactly as it was when Goldfinger died in 1987. The spiral staircase spans floors filled with highly covetable mid-century furniture and art.
Don’t visit on an Open House day—an event in which the world’s most interesting houses are open to the public. I’ve made that mistake and was unable to get in. On any other day, it should be fine, and afterwards you can take a stroll through the hilly park of Hampstead Heath.
21 locals recommend
2 Willow Road
2 Willow RdIf you’re into modernism, this house designed and inhabited by Ernö Goldfinger in 1940 is one to see. It’s owned by the National Trust, which has kept everything exactly as it was when Goldfinger died in 1987. The spiral staircase spans floors filled with highly covetable mid-century furniture and art.
Don’t visit on an Open House day—an event in which the world’s most interesting houses are open to the public. I’ve made that mistake and was unable to get in. On any other day, it should be fine, and afterwards you can take a stroll through the hilly park of Hampstead Heath.
Shopping
It’s easy to lose hours inside this 1920s Tudor-revival shop. The whole space is built around an amazing, carved-wood atrium surrounded by balconies, so you can look up to the old timbered roof or down on the collections from every different level. The beautiful wood was salvaged from two old warships.
If you’re stocking up for your home, you’ll enjoy the shopping here, too. Liberty carries everything from old Moroccan treasures to modern Danish design pieces like trays and plant pots. The rug section is a real treasure trove, and the textiles area is great for designers.
193 locals recommend
Liberty London
Regent StreetIt’s easy to lose hours inside this 1920s Tudor-revival shop. The whole space is built around an amazing, carved-wood atrium surrounded by balconies, so you can look up to the old timbered roof or down on the collections from every different level. The beautiful wood was salvaged from two old warships.
If you’re stocking up for your home, you’ll enjoy the shopping here, too. Liberty carries everything from old Moroccan treasures to modern Danish design pieces like trays and plant pots. The rug section is a real treasure trove, and the textiles area is great for designers.
Drinks & Nightlife
This is a proper old Victorian-era boozer, cosy and quintessentially British, with its century-and-a-half-old mahogany-paneled interior and leather banquette seating. The old boys still perch on the barstools for daily catch-ups, even though under its new ownership, the pub has gotten raves for its modern British food. (Michelin has awarded it Pub of the Year.)
Opt to sit downstairs, as that’s where the most atmosphere and character are, though it’s lovely on the small roof terrace on summer evenings, too.
95 locals recommend
Marksman Public House
254 Hackney RdThis is a proper old Victorian-era boozer, cosy and quintessentially British, with its century-and-a-half-old mahogany-paneled interior and leather banquette seating. The old boys still perch on the barstools for daily catch-ups, even though under its new ownership, the pub has gotten raves for its modern British food. (Michelin has awarded it Pub of the Year.)
Opt to sit downstairs, as that’s where the most atmosphere and character are, though it’s lovely on the small roof terrace on summer evenings, too.